| From
Giulia Sindler, third generation owner ...
My grandmother, Marion Konishi (1920 - 1990)
loved Old Town. She lived and worked on Wells
Street for more than 40 years. In 1967, she opened
Kamehachi of Tokyo, which is widely recognized
as the first sushi bar in Chicago. My grandmother
was part of a multi-generational community of
Japanese-Americans, many of whom traveled from
the internment camps to rebuild their lives here
after the war. This group maintained many traditions
of their culture, against the background of the
colorful and diverse Old Town neighborhood. The
Midwest Buddhist Temple on Menomonee Street, where
many of these community members worshipped, remains
a remnant of this culture.
When my grandmother first opened Kamehachi of
Tokyo at 1617 N. Wells Street, few Americans had
even heard of sushi. Now, many people are choosing
to master this art in their own homes.
The recipes below also represent the culture
of these Nisei (first American-born Japanese).
They are examples of family-style Japanese cooking
that my grandmother would have shared with friends
in her home or her restaurant. These recipes,
from Nisei kitchens, represent a culture and community
that once existed in Old Town but have now all
but disappeared from the neighborhood and the
country today.
SUKIYAKI
2 lb. beef flank steak, sirloin tip or tenderloin,
partially frozen
and sliced paper thin (some butchers will slice
it for you)
3 c. celery cabbage – 1” pieces
½ lb. spinach
2 c. sliced mushrooms
1 sq. tofu – 1” cubes
1 can sliced bamboo shoots
1 can shirataki, drained or ½ pkg. dry
bean thread, soaked to directions
(buy in Oriental food stores/sections)
1 bunch scallions – 1” pieces
Shoyu or soy sauce
Sake or white wine
1-2 c. dashi broth (made from instant bags available
in Oriental food stores, or make stock by boiling
¼ c. fish flakes and 3” sq. of kombu
seaweed in 3 c. water)
Sugar
Eggs – 1 per person (optional)
Arrange vegetables and meat attractively on large
platters and bring to table to cook. An electric
skillet (360 degrees) or heavy skillet on a hot
plate works best, or cook at the stove. Fry out
some suet or 1 tbsp. oil. Add about a third of
beef and stir-cook until slightly brown. Sprinkle
2 heaping spoonfuls (to taste) of sugar, ¼
c. shoyu, 2 tbsp. sake/wine and cup of dashi.
Bring to bubbling. Push food aside and add vegetables,
trying to keep each separated. Stir and cook only
until tender, adjusting temperature.
For an authentic touch, have ready individual
bowls with beaten raw egg, into which hot sukiyaki
may be dipped to eat. Serve with steamed white
rice.
Keep adding vegetables, more sauce and meat to
pan, cooking and eating as you go along.
Serves six.
SALMON TERIYAKI
2 lb. salmon, thinly sliced, but thick if preferred
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh ginger
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 tbsp. sugar
½ c. soy sauce
¼ c. water
2 cloves garlic, chopped fine
Cut salmon into serving pieces and marinate with
a sauce made with the ginger root, garlic, onion,
sugar, soy sauce, and water for 1 to 2 hours.
Spread fish out on a shallow pan and broil 3 to
5 minutes on each side. Serve hot with grated
daikon (long white radish).
Serves six.
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